The shape of the week
Two nights in Kigali to arrive properly, eat well and see the city on foot. Three or four nights in the Virungas with two gorilla treks — a second permit is the best money you will spend, and the second hour is invariably calmer than the first. Then three nights on Lake Kivu, where the point is to stop moving entirely.
The order matters. Doing the trekking first and the lake last means the honeymoon ends in stillness rather than at 05:45 in hiking boots.

